Exhibition: New for Now: The Origin of Fashion Magazines

Fashion, Textile & Costume Librarians

poster_the origin of fashion magazinesWhat: New for Now: The Origin of Fashion Magazines

Where: The Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, Netherlands

When: June 12 to September 27, 2015

“Before the advent of photography, fashion was mainly seen in prints. The often beautifully coloured designs showed one or several models wearing fashionable clothing, and included a short description. For that reason, these fashion prints in particular are considered the precursors to today’s fashion magazines.

The Rijksmuseum presents a major retrospective of its rich collection of costume and fashion prints for the first time. The change in women’s and men’s fashion from the year 1600 up to and including the first half of the 20th century, and the development of the fashion magazine into the fashion glossies we know today, can be seen in more than 300 prints. The exhibition was designed by designer and co-curator Christian Borstlap, in collaboration with fashion illustrators Piet Paris and Quentin Jones.”

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Well, bust my buttons!

Buttons suppliers & resources

UIG538681 Button Maker: Stamping out metal buttons. Blank held in place and weight holding die for pattern being work was raised by rope and pulley wheel and dropped on blank. Dies for different sizes and patterns on floor. Buttons would need finishing by removal of burrs and imperfections. Hand-coloured woodcut from The Book of English Trades London 1823.; Universal History Archive/UIG; out of copyright

UIG538681 Button Maker: Stamping out metal buttons. Blank held in place and weight holding die for pattern being work was raised by rope and pulley wheel and dropped on blank. Dies for different sizes and patterns on floor. Buttons would need finishing by removal of burrs and imperfections. Hand-coloured woodcut from The Book of English Trades London 1823.; Universal History Archive/UIG; out of copyright

Don’t hit the panic button! Here I have for you a festival of button links for you to rummage through.

First things first – traditionally buttons are measured by a unit measure called Linge. You will also have them seized and sold in mm and inches. Having a button size chart will help when it comes to placing orders and designing. M&J Trim have a PDF size chart true to size with all 3 (Ligne, mm, inches) measurements to download.

Back up – Ligne, where does that come from and mean?  It comes from both German and French origins and means line. A unit of measurement applied to the diameter of of the button. Made a universal standard measurement in Europe in the 18th century by German button makers. Used by French and Swiss wristwatch makers to measure the size of a watch movement it is a precise and strict unit. A ligne equals exactly 1/40th of an inch of the diameter of a button or a snap.

12 Ligne-6 mm
13 Ligne-7 mm
14 Ligne-8 mm
15 Ligne-9 mm
16 Ligne-9.5 mm
17 Ligne-10.5 mm
18 Ligne-11 mm
19 Ligne-12.5 mm
20 Ligne-13 mm
21 Ligne-13.5 mm
24 Ligne-16 mm
28 Ligne-18 mm
30 Ligne-19 mm
32 Ligne-20 mm
34 Ligne-21 mm
36 Ligne-22 mm
40 Ligne-25.5 mm
44 Ligne-28 mm
45 Ligne-29 mm
48 Ligne-30.5 mm
50 Ligne-32 mm
60 Ligne-38 mm
64 Ligne-40.5 mm
65 Ligne-41 mm

Worldwide

M&J Trim not just for buttons buckles too! – and trim – Shop online or visit the store in NYC. There website is full of information check out the ‘How to buy buttons‘ page.

M&J Trimming
1008 Sixth Avenue
(Between 37th & 38th St)
New York, NY 10018      1-800-9-MJTRIM

 

Yes the website and stock is as cute as the name as the business. Also the service is hard to beat. Making this one of my top resources.

‘As Cute As A Button was opened in 1993 in San Diego, California because we needed a good selection of quality buttons. I was a clothing designer and could not find great buttons for the beautiful fabrics I was working with. Over the past 20 years our selection of buttons has grown to over 8000 styles. Most of our buttons come from Italy, Germany, England, The Czech Repub
lic, South America and the USA. Some of the online competitors say they can undersell us but they are selling inferior buttons from China. Many of the Glass, Natural and Hand Crafted buttons I purchase from individual designers or small companies….’ 

Contact Kym Milburn, Founder and Owner. 1286 University Ave. #857,San Diego, CA, 92103
(By Appointment Only)  619-223-2555   kym@ascuteasabutton.com

 

Totally Buttons  stock over 3000 different styles, colours and sizes, adding new materials including: Swarovski Crystal, Italian Glass, Metal, Fabric & Beaded, Jeans, Sewing, Glitter & Diamante, Multicoloured, Suit & Shirt and Coat Buttons.’ 

Take a look at the coat buttons category for anyone making military uniforms.

PO Box 976
Horsham
RH12 9QF    01403 598014

 

UK

‘Harlequin is a specialist manufacturer making bespoke accessories and garments for couturiers and dressmakers. We are famous for our fabric belts, covered buttons and ties, which bring the world’s top designers to us looking for our superb quality, exceptionally fast turnaround and our passion for what we do’.

Harlequin, Shop Road, Little Bromley, Manningtree, Essex CO11 2PZ, UK.       +44 (0)1206 396167

‘D.M.Buttonholes has been established in the heart of London’s Soho for nearly 100 years. We provide a comprehensive buttonholing service and we manufacture and supply quality covered button in various styles and sizes. You provide the fabric and we make the buttons.’

A gift from the Costume God’s are D. M Buttons.

11b Wardour Mews
D’arblay Street
Soho
London W1F 8AN

Tel/Fax: 020 7437-8897  Email: dmbuttons@aol.com  OPENING TIMES MONDAY TO FRIDAY 7.30AM TO 3.00PM

 

A feast of buttons and notions  are available at Minerva Crafts. Did I menshion their wonderful prices.

Our buttons range is absolutely huge which includes every kind of button you can image. They vary greatly in size, shape, colour, weight and price, we’re sure we’ll have the right kind to suit your every need.’

Minerva Craft Centre,
Minerva Fabrics Ltd.
Atlas Road,
Darwen,
Lancashire,
BB3 3BY         +44 (0)1254 708068

USA

Part of the JHB mega button compay Button Lovers.com is the online store for Blumenthal Lansing Company. Here you will find all the same brands that JoAnnas and Hobby Lobby sells maybe cheep and in the amounts you need!

‘Welcome to Button Lovers! For over 130 years, our company Blumenthal Lansing has been the destination for wholesale buttons and retail buttons, sewing buttons, novelty buttons and craft buttons. Now, online buyers finally
have access to the world’s best buttons!’

1929 Main Street
Lansing, IA 52151
Phone: 563-538-4211 / 800-553-4158

 

Vintage covered buttons resource Bee Lignes has a hoard to chose from.

Bee Lignes, Inc.
121A 107th Avenue NE
Bellevue, WA 98004
Phone: 206-420-1307    Sales@BeeLignes.com       www.facebook.com/beelignes

 

Lace Heaven located in Mobile Alabama has a is a little shop with a big supply. Wholesale to the us common people. Also use for trims and embellishments.

‘Lace Heaven is your only stop when looking for wholesale sewing buttons online. You will easily find a wide selection of clothing and crafting buttons, with great bargains and deals.’

Lace Heaven Inc.
2524 Dauphin Island Parkway
Mobile, AL. 36605
1-251-478-5644
laceheaven@comcast.net

Links

Books

Buttons: The Collector’s Guide to Selecting, Restoring and Enjoying New and Vintage Buttons

by Nancy Fink (Hardcover)

Buttons: a Collectors Guide

by Houart (Hardcover)

50 Heirloom Buttons to Make

by Nancy Nehring, Marcus Tullis (Kindle Edition)

Buttons and Trimmings: From Snowshill (Fashion & Sty​le)

by Althea MacKenzie (Hardcover)

The Button Industry in the United States

by Edward Louis Newberger (Paperback)

Old Buttons

by Sylvia Llewelyn (Paperback)

Buttons (Shire Album)

by Alan Meredith, Gillian Meredith (Paperback)

BUTTON BUTTON IDENTIFICATION AND PRICE: Identification and Price Guide

by PEGGY ANN OSBORNE (Paperback) .

Buttons : A Passementerie Workshop Manual

by Gina Barrett (Paperback)

Dorset Buttons, Handstitched in Dorset for Over 300 Years

by Thelma Johns (Paperback) .

Local Militia Buttons

by Howard Ripley, Bob Moodie (Hardcover)

Buttons of the Regular Army 1855-2000

by Howard Ripley, Denis Darmanin (Paperback)

Beautiful Buttons

by Beate Schmitz (Paperback) .

Buttons and Fasteners 500BC – AD1840

by Gordon Bailey, Greg Payne (Paperback)

 

Top 10 supplier for wardrobe Supervisors.

Image result for top list

Over a time you build up a ‘go to’ list of suppliers & resources. Made from a trusted mixture of reliable delivery, customer service and range of stock.  This list is taken from my personal ‘go to’ list.

UK

A business of fixture and fittings for retail but so much more. Morplan has been a fashion student’s life line for years. (I still have my scissors from my college days!) You can order a paper catalogue, shop online or visit 1 of their 3 stores. Tailoring equipment, specialist threads, pattern making tools, tailor dummies and dressmaking supplies are all worth a visit.

 

“Established in 1920 – Jaycotts is a family run, online-retail company.
We’ve been doing this for a long time, and have built a strong reputation for being one of the countries leading suppliers of sewing products. Our service is widely known to be efficient and reliable.  Our website has thousands of products from the best manufacturers & brands.
We supply the general public, businesses, schools & colleges, hospitals and government organisations, etc. Anyone can shop with us – Online, by phone (01244 394 099) and in person at our store in Chester.”

 

History: A family business established in 1971 based on College Rd’ in Rochdale by Richard Atherton senior;beginning with the sale / rental & servicing of industrial / domestic machines. The business developed into the supply of spare parts & needles; from which the company quickly expanded and moved into larger premises on Bamford Rd, Heywood, then Phoenix Ind Estate, Heywood and now Waterfold business park, Bury situated next to the M66 motorway (pictured). Sons Justin, Richard junior & Mark actively run operations where all major sewing machine brands are extensively stocked for immediate supply. Stockists & Agents for Brother, Durkopp Adler, Juki, Kansai, Mitsubishi, Pegasus, Pfaff, Rimoldi, Singer, Union Special along with other established brands; Schmetz needles & Mundial scissors.

 

Luck for me this shop is in the local area to me. Art van Go is an art shop and teaching space. A textile artiste Aladdin’s cave of dye, fabric paint and artist’s equipment.

The Studios, Stevenage Road, Knebworth, Herts, SG3 6AN. Call: 01438 814949

USA/Worldwide

How Manhattan Wardrobe Supply Started
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply was born after Cheryl Kilbourne-Kimpton and Tommy Boyer heard the remark “I’m getting too old for this…” on a late night film shoot. The remark opened a conversation about creating a one stop shop of their dreams: a place with everything a Costume Professional or Fashion Stylist would ever need, whether for film, tv, the stage or circus.
– See more at: http://blog.wardrobesupplies.com/about-manhattan-wardrobe-supply/#sthash.ZqMM9Hqh.dpuf

What can I tell you MWS has been a staple ‘go to’ every since I start to work in the US. Now I’m back in the UK shipping is not as easy but possible.

 

Welcome to WAWAK® Sewing Supplies, featuring the world’s largest inventory of brand name sewing supplies! With more than 20,000 premium-quality items in stock, we have everything for home sewing and for the professional. Whatever project you’re working on, whatever you need, we’ve got the perfect product in stock and ready to ship! And every item is available to you at the lowest price anywhere. In fact, we GUARANTEE the lowest price on every item we sell!

 

Request a catalogue , set up an account and make sure you place your order early. As sometimes they can run out of stock quick!

 

Since 1983 Tuxedo Wholesaler has been a leading supplier of men’s and women’s Concert Attire to performance groups. We are experts at outfitting groups of all sizes, offering affordable elegance with a wide range of classical selections. Our experienced customer service staff can assist you in all aspects of outfitting your group. Our goal is to give you original designs and quality merchandise at affordable prices. We stand behind our products and strive for your complete satisfaction.Menswear for Theatre & Costume from classic lines to re-invented lines for stylized characters. Tuxedo Wholesaler is a provider of the highest quality garments for your theatrical performance and costume needs. We proudly serve the Theatre, Film, and Music industries, schools, universities, and professionals worldwide. 

 

Rhinestone Guy offers retail and wholesale rhinestones at competitive prices and unmatched customer service. Our line of Swarovski Crystals Xirius & Xilion Rose and Czech Preciosa VIVA rhinestones is extensive. Our RG Premium, and Hot Fix RG2 rhinestones is a great alternative for those with large production needs. And, those who are looking for brilliant stones will be amazed at their pricing. Rhinestone Guy says these rhinestones are the Best Sparkle for the Buck! We have rhinestones for every project and budget. Our inventory is vast and ready to be shipped. And… YES, we ship immediately.

 

www.dharmatrading.com

Request their catalog and enjoy flipping through the pages for all your costume craft and dyeing needs.

Vintage Lingerie & Petticoats

petticoats

Adding to the corset post, here I have put together resources and links to vintage lingerie and petticoats.

Below is a link to my Pinterest board full of images, book and tutorial links.

Worldwide

What Katie Did – faux vintage lingerie and hosiery. Online shopping at its best – and they have walk-in store’s – What Katie Did is a one stop shop for quality ready – made vintage lingerie or hosiery, they even have swimwear. If you need seamed stockings this is the place to buy them. Once on the website you chose which county you are shopping from ( left hand side drop box ) worldwide shipping. See my post and recommendation on how to shop worldwide.  London Boutique: What Katie Did, 26 Portobello Green, 281 Portobello Road, London, W10 5TZ Tel: 0845 430 8943

Los Angeles Store: What Katie Did, 7970 1/2 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood, California, 90046 USA Tel: 1 877 221 2472

 

Milanoo.com an on-line shopping store not just for petticoats! It’s headquarters are in China and supplies many other online retail stores. Make sure when placing your order it is not when a holidays is on. This will add to your shipping time.

 

UK

‘Doris designs and sells boutique high quality petticoat skirts made of over 36 meters (adult version) of double layered soft light chiffon giving them great bounce and body. They are simply timeless and will turn heads wherever you go. From newborns to adults, there is a wide range of colours to suit any occasion.’  call 0843 289 6622 for an appointment to their Surrey store customerservice@dorisdesigns.co.uk

 

USA

Brabarella Intermate Apparel & Hosiery. Long line bras, open bottom girdles to wide striped tights and everything in-between. Brabarella offers vintage shapewear and lingerie at reasonable prices. Contact them through email is best.orders@brabarella.com, 508-775-2226 Brabarella Lingerie. P.O. Box 635 Hyannis Port, MA 02647

 

ReSashay specializes in custom and readymade petticoats for all occasions, square dance apparel, western wear and accessories‘. Just one of the wonderful serveries offered is a chance to buy Pre-loved petticoats, as well as brand new. There ‘Create your very own’ petticoat is a joy for any designer who is in need of an unusual colour and fabric match. With Square Dance and Western wear y’hall have all bases covered here. Email: info@resashay.com Phone: 301 761-1011 or 800 900-DANCE. ReSashay, 14833 Native Dancer Rd 1 Potomac, MD 20878, USA

 

http://www.vintagedancer.com/

‘VintageDancer.com links to the best vintage inspired clothing, shoes, and accessories for sale online. We make finding clothes by decade, style and gender easy’. Blog website full of resource links to ready-made fashion and retro costumes.

 

Producer and Director of Petticoat Pond website is Tes Staylace. Along with her they make an invaluable and fun website with resourceful links.

 

Research

Susan Jarrett, M.ED writes on the history of fashion and dress. Giving details into the crinoline and bustle

 

Patterns

Simplicity 9764 Sewing Pattern Fashion Historian Martha McCain. Can be found in any good fabric shop or eBay search.

Bustle Undergarment Structure: different ways of attaching and making the bustle underneath the full skirts.

Corset and Crinoline Supplies

Corset Making

Actors love mental disorders, dialects, and corsets. Give them one of the three and they’re happy. ”  – Robin TunneyWhale bone, cotton and satin tails, 1885  Galliera, Musée De La Mode De La Ville De Paris: Whale bone, cotton and satin tails, 1885 Galliera, Musée De La Mode De La Ville De Paris

Here’s my tried and trusted resources on the subject of corset and crinoline making. Please contribute any that you use and trust by leaving a comment. If like me, this is an area of interest please enjoy looking over the websites and maybe start a new project?

UK

Vena Cava Design inventory offers you everything you would every need to make a basic, historic to costumed designed corset.  Packed full of costume making resources, this online shopping website should be a must on everyone’s bookmarked list.

 

MacCulloch & Wallis shop one of the industry hangouts in London. Always great to be able to see in person what you are buying, you can also order online.25-26 Poland Street, London, W1F 8QN Tel: 020 7629 0311

 

Sew Curvy runs the School of Corsetry and has a tutorials on corset making. Their website sells corset making supplies that come with useful guides and charts to help you decide which boning is right for your project.

 

Buckles Express (Joseph Segal Ltd) I am hi-lighting the eyelets as there are many to choose from. What is great you can find the ones with the taller shank, which is helpful when it comes to corset making due to the thickness of fabrics. Cortress House, Julia Street, Strangeways, Manchester, England, UK, M3 1DQ Tel: +44(0)161 834 979

 

Yep an eBay store! They sell steel boning and rubber boning caps. Offer a service that you can have your boning cut to the length you require, all for a great price. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ontrendfabrics/Boning-/_i.html?_fsub=4349704011

 

USA

Not just for corsets – bra, hat and leather making supplies are catered from this well-established company. Based in Philadelphia. Website is very user friendly. Contact them – Delicious, LLC. 212 E. Girard Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125   Tel: 215-413-8259 cs@SuppliesSites.com

 

http://www.richardthethread.com/index.php?submenu=CorsetEssentials&src=gendocs&link=corset_essentials&category=Main

Old faithful Richard the Thread may be on the higher end of the price bracket but is reliable and all goods are trust worthy. A one stop shop for all your costume needs! Contact them – 1960 South La Cienega Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90034.  1-800-473-4997

 

This New York City store is a treasure trove and an institution within the garment district. Call them and they will help attend to your needs or visit the store for an education in its self.   239 W 39th St, New York, NY 10018 United States, b/t 7th Ave & 8th Ave, Midtown West Tel: 212 869-0321

 

Dragontown Corset Supply cater for the individual as well as wholesale quantities. Online shopping that is made easy with their photos and descriptions to the variety on offer. Take a look! orders@corsetsupply.com Tel: 570.431.9042   M-F 9:00-3:00 Eastern, 420 Hermon Rd. Saxe, VA 23967. USA

 

Linda Sparks owns Farthingales Midwest Corsets & Supplies. She is also the author of “The Basics of Corset Building- A Handbook for Beginners”. An informative textbook for anyone wanting to learn corsetry. The website offers a host of information on the subject as well as selling top quality supplies for corsets and crinolines, as well as tools and patterns. HOWEVER, the store itself is closed. You can still order corset supplies on the website and they will be shipped from Chicago. BUT I would so and use their flagship company (see below) located in Canada.

 

A Canadian online company that has some ‘hard to find’ items listed. They ship worldwide to both the theatre and film industry. Tutu making and Garter making supplies are offered as well as Millinery and Patterns. sales@farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

 

Research

…”fascinating history of Spirella and the corsetieres who worked for this company…”

Primary sources are all over this wonderful German website. Do not miss the chance to read ‘The Corset and the Crinoline – A book of Modes and Costumes from Remote Periods to the Present Times’

 

Links

 

 Books

  • Bare Essentials: Underwear – Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design: 1 by Jennifer Lynne Matthews
  • Corset Making: For Beginners to Intermediate
    by Julia Bremble (CD-ROM)Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh
  • Corsets: A Modern Guide by Velda Lauder
  • Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen
  • Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture by David Kunzie
  • Foundations of Fashion book (revised 2013) – The Symington Corsetry Collection 1860-1990 by Philip Warren and Sarah Nicol.
  • Foundations of Fashion: The Symington Corsetry Collection 1860-1990 by Christopher Page, Philip Warren
  • Patterns of Fashion: 1660-1860: Vol 1 by Janet Arnold
  • Period Costume for Stage and Screen: 1800-1909: Patterns for Women’s Dress by Jean Hunnisett, Janette Haslam
  • Seventeenth Century Women’s Dress: 2 (Dress Pattern 2)
    by Tiramani Jenny
  • The Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners
    by Linda Sparks
  • The Corset: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele
  • The History of Underclothes (Dover Fashion and Costumes)
    by C. Willett Cunnington
  • The Little Corset Book (Little Costume Workbooks)
    by Bonnie Ambrose
  • The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress
    by Jane Malcolm-Davies, Ninya Mikhaila
  • Tight Lacing: 1828-1880 Pt. 1: A Bibliography of Articles and Letters Concerning Stays and Corsets for Men and Women
    by Peter Farrer
  • Underwear by Wearden Jennifer
  • Underwear Fashion in Detail
    by Eleri Lynn
  • Vintage Lingerie: Historical Patterns and Techniques
    by Jill Salen
  • Waisted efforts: An illustrated guide to corset making
    by Robert Doyle

Costume History Research, make a start?

To start at the very beginning.

One website that has save my butt many time when writing papers and researching for shows. Has been The Costume Gallery’s Research Library.

Graphics Intense Webpage. Please be patient while the images load.

 

 

With over 5000 web page and images this resource keeps on giving.  You can browse the titles of the books and articles but to gain full  access, a subscription fee for a whole month is needed. Well worth paying to enter the Aladdin’s Cave of rare and vintage costume books online.